19th
Pete’s Apasta - sausage, caramelized onions, roasted garlic, ricotta
I hail from the greatest state in the union… for pizza. What state would that be? Connecticut, of course. From the famous Frank Pepe’s to one-of-a-kind Colony Grille to modish Bar (my favorite), Connecticut knows its pizza. And, lo and behold, the best pizza place in DC is a tribute to, you guessed it, New Haven style pizza. I’m talking, of course, about Pete’s Apizza in Columbia Heights. I went there for dinner on my birthday and had two absolutely terrific pies. (I had help. In case you were concerned.) This pasta is an homage to Pete’s. An homage … to an homage.
Like painting your own Campbell’s soup can, I suppose…
It’s a shame this guy isn’t the most photogenic in the world, because, man, this is a good pasta dish. The Italian sausage (hot and mild) is extremely flavorful, the roasted garlic is savory, the onions bring sweetness to the party and the ricotta is cool, creamy and rich. Pete’s, I salute you.
The pizzas at Pete’s are, charmingly, named after landmarks in New Haven. This pasta is something of a blend between the “Edge of the Woods” and the “Staven.” (EOTW is a venerable New Haven grocer; Staven is what the locals call East Haven.) Roasting the garlic and caramelizing the onions are each a small project, so call this a slow weeknight dinner or an easy weekend one.
If there’s anything wrong with Connecticut pizza, it’s the weird tradition of calling it “apizza.” But as far as I am concerned, crispy, wood-fired, thin-crust deliciousness with tangy, not-too-sweet sauce and just-enough cheese can go by whatever name it wants.
PETE’S APASTA - SAUSAGE, CARAMELIZED ONIONS, ROASTED GARLIC, RICOTTA
1 lb pasta
1 lb Italian sausage (half hot, half mild), casings removed, crumbled
ricotta cheese
2 sweet onions, sliced
1 tbl brown sugar
1 head garlic
parmesan cheese, grated
olive oil
1. Boil pasta until al dente in heavily salted water.
2. Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees. Cut top off of garlic and wrap in foil. Roast for 30-35 minutes. Remove roasted garlic cloves from bulb.
3. In pan, add glug of olive oil and heat over medium-high. Add onions and cook until beginning to brown, stirring frequently. Add sugar and lower heat to medium-low. Cook until caramelized, about 45 minutes, stirring very occasionally.
4. Add a dash of oil to other pan and heat on high. Add crumbled sausage and cook until well browned, stirring occasionally. With slotted spoon, remove to paper towel-lined plate.
5. Mix together pasta with garlic, onions and sausage. Put in bowls, topping each bowl with dollop of ricotta. Serve, passing parmesan.
